Most people are asking the wrong question.

“Bakuchiol or retinol?”

That’s not the question.

The question is: do you actually understand what these two ingredients do differently? And are you using them in a way that gets the most out of both?

Probably not. Because the internet turned this into a debate. And debates need sides.

There are no sides here. Just skin science.

The Retinol Problem Nobody Talks About

Retinol works. That’s not up for debate.

But here’s what is: most people who use retinol don’t use it consistently enough to get results.

They start. Skin purges. Peeling. Redness. Stinging. They back off. Use it twice a week. Stop for a month. Start again.

And the whole time they’re wondering why their results are slow.

It’s not the retinol. It’s the interruption.

A gentler ingredient used every single day beats a powerful one you can barely tolerate twice a week.

That’s the conversation we should be having.

Not “is bakuchiol as strong as retinol.” But: “what’s the most effective approach I can actually stick to?”

What The Research Actually Says

There’s a randomised, double-blind clinical trial published in the British Journal of Dermatology that most people summarise incorrectly.

44 participants. 12 weeks. Two groups.

Group one used 0.5% bakuchiol cream twice daily.

Group two used 0.5% retinol cream once daily.

High-resolution imaging at weeks 4, 8 and 12. A board-certified dermatologist grading pigmentation and redness. The works.

The results:

Both groups showed statistically equivalent reductions in wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation. No significant difference between the compounds.

The difference:

The retinol group reported skin scaling, erythema and stinging. The bakuchiol group reported zero adverse events.

That’s not a niche finding. That’s a peer-reviewed, randomised controlled trial.

Bakuchiol isn’t retinol-lite. It’s a different molecule that arrives at a comparable destination via a completely different biological pathway. It activates similar gene expression including genes responsible for collagen types I, III and IV  without structural resemblance to vitamin A.

You don’t have to pick the ingredient that works. You can pick the one that works and that you’ll actually use.

The Objections I Hear. And What’s Actually True.

“Bakuchiol is just a trend.”

It was first isolated in 1966.

The peer-reviewed research confirming its retinol-like gene expression activity was published in 2014.

It’s been used in Ayurvedic medicine for centuries.

The “trend” part is TikTok noticing something that dermatology journals figured out a decade ago.

“I already use retinol. I don’t need it.”

This is the one that surprises people most.

Bakuchiol makes your retinol work better.

Here’s why: retinol is unstable. Exposure to light and heat degrades it, generating reactive oxygen species that can cause oxidative stress in your skin — which is part of why it causes irritation in the first place.

Bakuchiol stabilises retinol. Its antioxidant properties neutralise those reactive oxygen species, extending retinol’s effectiveness and reducing the irritation cascade.

Using both isn’t redundant. It’s a stack.

Bakuchiol is the calm to retinol’s intensity. It fills the gaps retinol leaves and actively protects you from its known downsides.

“Face oils break me out. I have oily skin.”

Only the wrong oils break you out.

This objection is about formulation, not face oils as a category.

Every oil in Zen Botanics products is checked against its comedogenic rating before it goes in. Cold-pressed, unrefined. The fatty acid profile of the carrier matters — it determines whether an oil absorbs into the skin barrier or sits on top of it.

Our Super Restore Oil is built around organic cold-pressed Prickly Pear Seed Oil and Squalane - two of the lowest-comedogenic oils available. Prickly Pear has the highest Vitamin E content of any plant oil and a fatty acid profile (omega 6 and 9) that’s specifically suited to oily and acne-prone skin. Squalane is structurally similar to your skin’s own sebum. It absorbs immediately, no heaviness, no pore-blocking.

Oily skin needs lipids. Stripping it of oil signals your skin to produce more. The issue was never oil. It was the wrong oil, in the wrong formula.

“I’m pregnant. I can’t use anti-ageing actives.”

Retinol: not safe during pregnancy. That’s well established.

Bakuchiol: doesn’t bind retinoic acid receptors (RARs) — the receptors involved in foetal development that make retinoids teratogenic. Which is precisely why researchers flag it as the option worth investigating for those who are pregnant, nursing or trying to conceive.

You can still support collagen production, skin texture and radiance while pregnant. Just not with vitamin A. Both our Super Restore Oil and Super Glow Oil contain bakuchiol and are formulated without retinol, synthetic fragrance or other pregnancy-flagged ingredients.

How To Actually Use These Together

Three approaches. Pick what fits your skin.

Option 1 — Alternate nights

Retinol one evening. Bakuchiol face oil the next. Keeps active ingredients working daily, cuts retinol frequency for sensitive skin.

Option 2 — AM/PM split

Bakuchiol face oil in the morning — it’s light-stable, unlike retinol, so you can use it before SPF. Retinol serum at night. Both running simultaneously. No overlap.

Option 3 — Layer them

Apply your retinol serum first. Follow with bakuchiol face oil. The oil’s antioxidants actively stabilise the retinol still working on your skin. People who’ve never been able to tolerate nightly retinol often find this combination changes that.

In all three: SPF every morning. Non-negotiable when retinol is in your routine.

Why A Face Oil Is The Smartest Format For Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol is lipid-soluble.

That means it penetrates skin more effectively in an oil-based formula than in a water-based serum. The carrier oils aren’t just filler — they determine how well the active gets where it needs to go.

We use bakuchiol in two oils, for two different skin concerns:

• Super Restore Oil — 0.5% Bakuchiol paired with organic cold-pressed Prickly Pear Seed Oil, Squalane and Blue Tansy. Formulated for oily, acne-prone, congested and stressed skin. Restores calm, rebalances oil production, clears congestion.
• Super Glow Oil — Bakuchiol paired with 4% stabilised Vitamin C (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate), cold-pressed Blueberry Seed Oil and Squalane. Formulated for dull skin, uneven tone, dark spots and fine lines. Antioxidant-rich and radiance-focused.

Both are formulated from scratch by me, in small batches, in Australia. No white label base. Every ingredient decision — concentration, form, carrier, preservation — is made one by one against clinical research and comedogenic data.

The difference between a bakuchiol oil that does nothing and one that visibly changes your skin isn’t the hero ingredient. It’s everything around it.

Is This For You?

You’re on retinol and you get irritation. Bakuchiol alongside it will reduce side effects and make your routine sustainable.

You can’t use retinol. Pregnant, nursing, or skin too reactive. Bakuchiol gives you the anti-ageing pathway retinol uses — without the retinol. Start with Super Restore Oil if your skin is oily, sensitive or acne-prone. Start with Super Glow Oil if your concern is dullness, uneven tone or early fine lines.

You’re oily or acne-prone and you’ve always avoided face oils. The Prickly Pear and Squalane base in Super Restore Oil is specifically suited to your skin type. This is where the formulation decisions matter.

You’re in your late 20s or 30s and you haven’t started an anti-ageing active yet. Bakuchiol is a lower barrier to entry than retinol. Start here. Add retinol later if you want to.

You want to compound results over time. That’s how both of these ingredients work. Consistent daily use. No drama, no interruptions.

If you have questions about how bakuchiol fits into what you’re already using, drop a comment or send me a DM. I’ll give you a straight answer. xx

FAQ

Is bakuchiol as effective as retinol?

Yes. A 12-week randomised, double-blind clinical trial published in the British Journal of Dermatology found bakuchiol (0.5%, twice daily) produced statistically equivalent reductions in wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation compared to retinol (0.5%, once daily). The key difference: the retinol group reported scaling, redness and stinging. The bakuchiol group reported zero adverse events.

Can you use bakuchiol and retinol together?

Yes — and there’s a specific reason to. Research shows bakuchiol stabilises retinol by neutralising the reactive oxygen species retinol generates when exposed to light and heat. This extends retinol’s effectiveness and reduces the irritation it causes. The two ingredients work through different biological pathways to achieve similar outcomes, so using both creates a synergistic effect rather than redundancy. A common approach: bakuchiol face oil in the morning, retinol serum at night.

Is bakuchiol safe during pregnancy?

Bakuchiol is widely considered a safer option during pregnancy compared to retinol. Unlike retinol, bakuchiol does not bind retinoic acid receptors (RARs) - the receptors involved in foetal development that make vitamin A derivatives teratogenic. Clinical reviews note bakuchiol can be considered for those who are pregnant, nursing or trying to conceive, though individual medical advice should always be sought.

Can people with oily or acne-prone skin use bakuchiol face oil?

Yes — if the face oil is correctly formulated. The key is the comedogenic rating of the carrier oils. A well-formulated bakuchiol face oil uses cold-pressed, non-comedogenic oils like Prickly Pear Seed Oil and Squalane, which absorb into the skin barrier rather than sitting on top of it and blocking pores. Prickly Pear is rich in omega 6 and 9 fatty acids and is specifically well-tolerated by oily skin. Squalane mimics the skin’s own sebum and absorbs without heaviness. Super Restore Oil is formulated specifically with this skin type in mind.

What concentration of bakuchiol is effective?

0.5% is the clinically studied concentration. The landmark British Journal of Dermatology trial used 0.5% bakuchiol applied twice daily and found significant improvement in wrinkles, pigmentation, elasticity and firmness over 12 weeks. This is the concentration used in Zen Botanics Super Restore Oil.

What is the difference between bakuchiol and retinol?

Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that drives cellular turnover by binding retinoic acid receptors. It’s highly effective but can cause dryness, peeling, redness and sun sensitivity especially during the first weeks of use. Bakuchiol is a plant-derived meroterpene from the Psoralea corylifolia plant. It activates similar gene expression pathways to retinol including collagen synthesis genes through a completely different biological mechanism, with a significantly better tolerability profile. Bakuchiol is also light-stable, pregnancy-compatible, and can be used morning and night.

How long does bakuchiol take to work?

Clinical studies use a 12-week benchmark, consistent with retinol research. Improvements in skin texture and tone can be visible from weeks 4–8 with consistent twice-daily use. The key word is consistent — both bakuchiol and retinol compound results over time. Interrupted use slows results significantly.

Which Zen Botanics oil should I use for bakuchiol?

It depends on your primary skin concern. Super Restore Oil is formulated for oily, acne-prone, congested and stressed skin. It pairs 0.5% Bakuchiol with Prickly Pear Seed Oil, Squalane and Blue Tansy to restore calm and rebalance oil production. Super Glow Oil is formulated for dull skin, uneven tone and dark spots.  It pairs Bakuchiol with stabilised Vitamin C and Blueberry Seed Oil for a radiance and antioxidant focus. Both are made in Australia, formulated from scratch, and free from synthetic fragrance.