Bakuchiol vs Retinol: Benefits, Research & How to Choose
Bakuchiol face oil is one of the most searched skincare topics in Australia right now and once you understand the science behind it, it's easy to see why. This plant-derived ingredient offers retinol-like results for skin, without the irritation, photosensitivity, and lengthy adaptation phase that can make conventional vitamin A so frustrating for many people.
Whether you're new to active skincare, have sensitive or reactive skin, or are simply looking for a gentler approach to anti-ageing, this guide covers everything you need to know about bakuchiol face oils available in Australia including how the ingredient works, what the clinical research actually shows, and how to use it effectively in your routine.
Quick Answer
Bakuchiol face oils are often a plant-derived skincare product formulated with bakuchiol an ingredient from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant, that has been extensively studied alongside retinol and shown to deliver comparable improvements in the appearance of fine lines and uneven skin tone, with significantly better tolerability. It is suitable for most skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin, and can be used both morning and evening.
What Is Bakuchiol, and Why Are Australians Searching for It?
Bakuchiol (pronounced ba-koo-chee-ol) is a compound extracted from the seeds of the Babchi plant (Psoralea corylifolia), used for centuries in Ayurvedic and traditional Chinese medicine. In modern skincare, it has attracted significant attention as a plant-derived ingredient that activates similar gene expression pathways to retinol without being a form of vitamin A.
The interest in bakuchiol in Australia has grown considerably, driven by the boom in retinol-based skincare and the equally common experience of retinol's side effects. Many Australians particularly those with sensitive, acne-prone, or redness-prone skin find retinol difficult to tolerate. Bakuchiol has emerged as a well-researched alternative that doesn't come with the same trade-offs.
It's now found in face oils, serums, moisturisers, and eye creams from Australian and international brands. Not all bakuchiol products are formulated the same way - concentration, carrier ingredients, and product format all influence how well it performs on your skin.
Is Bakuchiol Actually as Effective as Retinol?
This is the question most people want answered first, and the honest answer is: according to the most rigorous clinical research available, yes with an important qualifier.
A 12-week, randomised, double-blind trial published in the British Journal of Dermatology (Dhaliwal et al., 2019) compared 0.5% bakuchiol used twice daily against 0.5% retinol used once daily in 44 participants. Both groups showed statistically equivalent reductions in the visible appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and skin pigmentation, roughly a 20–30% improvement over the 12-week period.
The meaningful difference was tolerability. The retinol group reported significantly more scaling, stinging, and dryness. The bakuchiol group reported no adverse events of significance.
It is worth noting that this study compared bakuchiol to over-the-counter retinol - not to prescription-strength tretinoin, which has a larger body of evidence behind it. For the retinol available on the Australian market without a prescription, bakuchiol sits as a well-researched, evidence-based alternative.
The mechanism is distinct. Bakuchiol activates similar downstream gene expression pathways to retinol including genes associated with collagen synthesis and skin cell renewal but does so through a different molecular mechanism, which is why it doesn't carry the same side effect profile.
What Does Bakuchiol Actually Do for Skin?
Bakuchiol as an ingredient in a face oil works across several visible skin concerns simultaneously. The research and ingredient science support the following outcomes with regular use:
Visible reduction in fine lines and uneven skin texture. The 2019 British Journal of Dermatology trial found equivalent results to retinol in these areas after 12 weeks of use.
Improvement in the appearance of hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone. Bakuchiol has been studied for its ability to help reduce the visible appearance of dark spots and sun-related skin tone irregularity.
Antioxidant activity. Bakuchiol has documented antioxidant properties, which help the skin's natural defences against oxidative stress caused by UV exposure and environmental pollutants. This is particularly relevant in the Australian sun environment.
Support for a firmer-looking complexion. Gene expression studies show bakuchiol activates pathways associated with collagen and elastin maintenance, which helps skin appear firmer and smoother over time.
In a face oil format, bakuchiol is delivered alongside lipid-rich carrier oils that support the skin's natural moisture barrier, an added benefit given that retinol can compromise barrier function during the adaptation phase.
Bakuchiol vs Retinol: How to Choose for Your Skin Type
Both ingredients target similar skin concerns, but the right choice depends on your skin's tolerance and lifestyle. Here's a straightforward comparison:
Choose bakuchiol if you:
- Have sensitive, reactive, or redness-prone skin
- Have found retinol irritating or difficult to adapt to
- Want to use an active ingredient morning and evening (bakuchiol is photostable and it doesn't break down in sunlight the way retinol does)
- Are pregnant or breastfeeding and want to avoid vitamin A derivatives (note: always check with your healthcare provider before introducing new skincare during pregnancy)
- Prefer plant-derived formulations
- Are new to active skincare and want to start gently
Choose retinol if you:
- Have previously tolerated retinol well
- Want the most extensively researched vitamin A pathway available over-the-counter
- Are specifically targeting severe photodamage or deeper lines and are prepared for an adaptation period
Both together is also a valid approach. Bakuchiol's antioxidant properties help neutralise the reactive oxygen species generated when retinol degrades, one of the key irritation mechanisms which means the two ingredients are genuinely complementary rather than redundant.
Can I Use Bakuchiol Face Oil on Sensitive or Acne-Prone Skin?
Yes and this is one of bakuchiol's most significant advantages over conventional retinol.
For sensitive and reactive skin, bakuchiol's tolerability profile makes it one of the few active ingredients that can be used without a slow adaptation protocol. It does not typically cause the initial purging, peeling, or stinging associated with retinol introduction.
For acne-prone or oily skin, the research supports bakuchiol's antibacterial properties (as an ingredient characteristic, not a product therapeutic claim), and several studies have noted improvements in the visible appearance of blemish-prone skin with regular use. In a face oil format, the key is ensuring the carrier oils are non-comedogenic like olive squalane and cold-pressed Prickly Pear Seed Oil, for example, are both well-tolerated by oily and breakout-prone skin types.
There is a common misconception that oily skin should avoid face oils entirely. Oily skin is often a sign of a compromised moisture barrier or dehydration, not excess hydration. Non-comedogenic face oils can actually help regulate the appearance of oiliness by supporting the skin's barrier function, rather than triggering more sebum production.
For redness-prone skin, pairing bakuchiol with calming carrier oils such as Blue Tansy or Squalane adds a visible calming dimension. Look for formulations that combine these ingredients specifically.
What Percentage of Bakuchiol Is Effective in a Face Oil?
The clinical research used concentrations between 0.5% and 1% bakuchiol, and this range is generally accepted as the effective window for visible results in topical formulations. The key trial (Dhaliwal et al., 2019) used 0.5% twice daily.
In practice, most reputable Australian skincare brands formulate bakuchiol face oils between 0.5% and 2%. Below 0.5%, results are likely to be minimal. Above 2%, there is limited additional evidence that higher concentrations produce meaningfully better outcomes, and the cost of the ingredient increases significantly.
A face oil at 0.5% bakuchiol used twice daily sits at the evidence-based sweet spot. A 1% inclusion in an oil used once daily is also well-supported. Concentration alone isn't the whole story, the stability of the bakuchiol, the quality of the carrier oils, and the formulation approach all influence how well the ingredient performs on skin.
What's the Difference Between a Bakuchiol Serum and a Bakuchiol Face Oil?
The format matters, and the right choice depends on your skin type and what else you're using in your routine.
Bakuchiol serums are typically water-based and formulated with humectants like Hyaluronic Acid. They tend to be lighter in texture and absorb more quickly. They're a good fit for oily and combination skin types, and work well as the first active step in a routine, applied before moisturiser or face oil.
Bakuchiol face oils are lipid-based and deliver bakuchiol in a carrier oil matrix. The oil format allows for deeper delivery of fat-soluble actives, provides occlusive support for the moisture barrier, and — when formulated with complementary oils like Squalane, Prickly Pear Seed Oil, or Blueberry Seed Oil — adds a layer of antioxidant and nutrient benefit that a water-based serum cannot replicate. Face oils are typically applied as the final step in a skincare routine.
You can also layer both formats. A niacinamide or antioxidant serum applied first, followed by a bakuchiol face oil as the final step, is a well-supported routine approach that targets multiple visible skin concerns simultaneously.
How Long Does Bakuchiol Take to Work?
The research is fairly clear here: consistent use over 8–12 weeks is the timeframe for visible improvement in fine lines, hyperpigmentation, and skin tone.
Some people notice improved skin texture and radiance within the first 2–4 weeks, particularly if their skin was previously barrier-compromised or depleted. The anti-ageing and pigmentation-targeting effects take longer, consistent with how the ingredient interacts with skin cell turnover cycles.
Unlike retinol, there is no purging phase or worsening before improvement. Most people using bakuchiol for the first time see a steady, gradual improvement without any initial reactivity.
How to Use Bakuchiol Face Oil in Your Routine
Bakuchiol face oil can be used morning and evening — a key advantage over retinol, which is generally restricted to evening use due to photosensitivity.
A simple routine: cleanse, apply any water-based serum (Niacinamide or Hyaluronic Acid), then 3–5 drops of bakuchiol face oil pressed gently into skin. Follow with SPF 50+ in the morning. A moisturiser over the oil in the evening is optional based on your skin's needs.
If you're new to face oils, start with once daily and build from there.

FAQ
Is bakuchiol face oil available without a prescription in Australia?
Yes. Bakuchiol is classified as a cosmetic ingredient in Australia, New Zealand, and the EU, and is widely available in over-the-counter skincare products without a prescription. This contrasts with high-strength prescription retinoids (such as tretinoin), which require a prescription in Australia.
Can I use bakuchiol face oil every day?
Yes. Bakuchiol is generally well-tolerated for daily use, both morning and evening. The ingredient is photostable, meaning it does not break down in sunlight and does not increase sun sensitivity in the way retinol does. Daily SPF use is still recommended as a general skincare practice.
Is bakuchiol face oil suitable for mature skin?
Bakuchiol face oil is well-suited to mature skin. The ingredient targets multiple visible concerns associated with skin ageing — including the appearance of fine lines, loss of firmness, and uneven skin tone — and does so through a well-tolerated, non-irritating mechanism. The lipid-rich carrier oils in a face oil format also provide meaningful support for a mature skin barrier that may be producing less natural sebum.
Is bakuchiol better than retinol for ageing skin?
"Better" depends on your tolerance and priorities. For equivalent results with significantly better tolerability, the clinical evidence supports bakuchiol as a genuine alternative to retinol. For more severe photodamage or deeper lines, prescription-strength retinoids remain the most clinically validated approach — but bakuchiol sits comfortably alongside over-the-counter retinol by the measure of the available research.
Our Bakuchiol Face Oils
At Zen Botanics, we use bakuchiol across two face oils, formulated for different skin concerns and each is made in small batches from scratch, not from a white label base.
Super Glow Oil features bakuchiol at 1%, paired with super-stabilised Vitamin C (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) and cold-pressed Blueberry Seed Oil. Formulated for dull, uneven skin, dark spots, and fine lines.
Super Restore Oil features bakuchiol at 0.5%, paired with organic cold-pressed Prickly Pear Seed Oil (the highest Vitamin E content of any plant oil) and Squalane. Formulated for oily, acne-prone, congested, and redness-prone skin.
Questions about which fits your routine? Contact us — we read every message.
Sources
- Dhaliwal S, Rybak I, Ellis SR, et al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. British Journal of Dermatology. 2019;180(2):289-296. doi:10.1111/bjd.16918
- Chaudhuri RK, Bojanowski K. Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-ageing effects. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2014;36(3):221-230.
- Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA). Cosmetics. Australian Government Department of Health. tga.gov.au
- Future Market Insights. Bakuchiol Market Trends & Growth 2025–2035. futuremarketinsights.com.